A Tongan Farewell

When we got off the plane from Los Angeles, the Tongan Peace Corps staff welcomed us with a garland and greeting that I couldn't even pronounce. Then they leaned in close, and instead of kissing our cheeks, took a big sniff.

We were told (after learning how to say ma-lo-e-le-lei quickly) that, in Tonga, greetings and farewells end with a sniff, not a kiss.

I spent a lot of time trying to figure out why this was (is it because Tongans want to check if you've bathed or if you've "mohe'uli"?), but eventually I just chalked it up to "the Tongan way".

On my last day in Vava'u, the school prepared a farewell for me. As at any Tongan feast, there were tearful speeches, gifts, and an abundance of food.

At the end of the ceremony, all the teachers stood and sang a hymn while I went around the circle saying good-bye. By the time I approached the third teacher, a good friend of mine, I was crying so hard my nose was dripping.

My cheek pressed against hers, I involuntarily gave a big sniff.